Germany’s southwest – the rediscovery of home #2

Despite the release of some restrictions, the Covid-19 pandemic has been continuing. There is not really a positive outlook in terms of a complete return to “life as it was before”, but at least there is one more thing which continues to be in full bloom: nature. With that perspective, this blog post will again deal with my home region: Germany’s southwest – the rediscovery of home. Missed part one? Read it here. Again, I will link as much information and hiking trails as possible in order to help you with your trip planning.

As indicated in my last post, it is impossible to discover all highlights of the Black Forest in just a couple of days, hence it became my major focus area for further hikes. After previously hiking up the highest mountain in the northern part of Black Forest, the Hornisgrinde, I decided to go for the highest mountain in all of the Black Forest, the Feldberg. With 1,492 meters in elevation, it is also the highest mountain in the federal state of Baden-Württemberg and Germany’s highest mountain outside of the Alps. As there are many potential trails to hike up the Feldberg, it can be a great experience for all levels of difficulty. I wanted to challenge my stamina and chose a 20.9 km long circle route up the peak and back. The elevation gain, 800 meters in total, was quite smooth as the route to the peak was stretched over roughly 10 kilometers. Only after around two and a half hours of walking steadily uphill, I arrived at the peak area. While the way up there was not that spectacular, the peak area was stunning: 360 degree views into all directions with a relatively clear sight for spring time. From the peak, you can see the French Vosges Mountains, the Alps and the mountains of the northern part of the Black Forest. Up in the peak area, there was still some snow left from winter. The way back to the starting point led through a part of a beautiful waterfall trail. Unfortunately, that bit of the route turned out to be quite difficult as parts of it were inaccessible and required some cross-country climbing. Eventually, I arrived, exhausted but happy, back at the car.

Not far from there, you can find the Wutach Gorge, a steep-sided valley in the southern part of the Black Forest. I hiked from the Wutachmühle to the Schattenmühle and back, altogether 25 kilometers. If that is too long for you, I would recommend to start at the Schattenmühle as I consider the area close to it to be a bit more beautiful. In general, the Wutach Gorge is a fabulous place to hike. The trail is in a very natural state and awaits you with many great views, especially many great water reflections. The same is the case for many other gorges nearby which I look forward to discover another time.

Quite close to the Wutach Gorge but totally different: The Hegau. Going there, you will spot quite a few iconic mountains which are very interesting from a geological point of view: they are extinct volcanoes. I hiked the Hohentwieler trail which is with its length of eight kilometers quite relaxing. The trail will lead you through wine yards, orchards, a forest and, last but not least, the famous Hohentwiel Castle, a massive stronghold which was never conquered. Unfortunately, parts of it were destroyed after peacefully being handed over to Napoleon’s troops. Still, the remains are impressive. From there, you can also spot Lake Constance and the Alps.

Back to the Black Forest: The town of Bad Peterstal, located in the middle part of the Black Forest, offers great hiking opportunities. I chose the Himmelssteig – 10.6 kilometers in length, 615 meters in elevation and plenty of outstanding views. And, not to forget, two “nature bars” where you can enjoy a cold drink, be it local beer or a mineral water. In 2017, it was voted to be Germany’s most beautiful hiking trail in the category of day tours.

Going further north in the Black Forest, you will eventually arrive in the area of Calw. This region offers next to beautiful towns with many timber-framed buildings plenty of great hiking opportunities. Here I want to highlight three great places to hike: the Monbachtal close to Bad Liebenzell, the stunning and immense cloister ruin in Hirsau and its nearby Schweinbachtal and the Teinacher trail with its more than 600 exhausting but beautiful steps starting in Bad Teinach. The nature of this region is comparably wild and romantic and well worth a visit – even if you know other parts of Black Forest already quite well.

Looking for variety? Consider to pay the region of Geislingen an der Steige a visit. I went there to hike the Steigen Tour. The 17.8 kilometers long trail offers many great views and places and gives insights into the challenge of building a train track from Stuttgart to Ulm. The engineers had to overcome the ascent of the Swabian Jura, making the trail not only a pleasure for lovers of nature but also for train enthusiasts.

Talking about the Swabian Jura, mastering its ascend was never a choice for the Danube river. With enough time and power, it shaped the landscape by building a canyon. This canyon, the upper Danube nature park, is so amazingly beautiful that I had to go there two times. First, I chose a hike starting at the cloister of Beuron, leading to many incredible views of the Danube valley. On my second visit, I chose the Donaufelsen Tour. With its 15.6 kilometers in length and plenty of meters in elevation, the tour is quite tough. But the magnificent views of the Danube valley, its remarkable rocks, a castle ruin and the stunning castle of Bronnen overcompensate for the efforts. In the time during all of these hikes, the Covid-19 pandemic became somewhat manageable, and with it a little part of everyday life returned. One thing is for sure though: Be it the Black Forest, the Swabian Jura or the river valleys – sooner or later, I will be back for more discoveries. I am already looking forward.

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