With the current Corona pandemic, the world is slowing down massively, almost coming to a complete hold. In order to stop the pandemic, it is necessary to limit travel and social contacts. But no doubt, this pandemic will end and we will be able to travel again. And we should: while there are still many armed conflicts on this planet, the world is more peaceful than ever before. I believe that a tight economic network and the possibility to connect people from different countries and cultures is a major driver for global peace. And this is why I will continue to blog about past trips in order to ignite our excitement for the future. The destination of this post? Surely a country which continued to stun me on a daily basis: Japan.
October 11th, 7.40 pm, Frankfurt International Airport – KE906 is about to depart for Seoul Incheon Airport. After a night in a plane, a run from one gate to another and a second, short flight to Fukuoka, I arrived in Japan. And Fukuoka is a great starting point for a trip to Japan: The city is located on Kyushu, Japan’s third largest island. The big Japanese cities can be overwhelming. Fukuoka is different. Rents are affordable, the quality of living is high and henceforth the city attracts many young families. Japan has some of the world’s largest metropolis areas but Japan’s society is aging and not exactly open to immigration, leading to the consequence of a slowly shrinking number of inhabitants. Unlike many other cities in Japan, Fukuoka is growing. Here you can enjoy your first Ramen, Japan’s famous noodle soup which is available in many variations. Make sure to visit Fukuoka’s landmark tower from where you can see some of Kyushu’s impressive coastal line. In best case, you do this shortly before sunset. After the sunset, explore the area close to the river to find delicious street food like Takoyaki, little balls filled with dough, vegetables and octopus. Moving through Fukuoka is relatively easy as the subway system is not very complicated. Given the fact that you might arrive with a horrible jetlag like me, Fukuoka is a perfect place to start your Japan adventure as it is not as overwhelming as other cities like Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka.
Kyushu offers many exciting nature sights but unfortunately time is limited and my trip focused on Japan’s cities. So after only one full day in Fukuoka, we took our first Shinkansen ride towards Hiroshima. Japan’s Shinkansen trains are world-famous for their reliability and punctuality. Make sure to get a Rail Pass in order to be able to use them. Talking about Japan’s railways also means to talk about Japan’s train stations. Unlike in many other countries, the train stations are far from being dodgy. In fact, they are a fantastic place to run errands and have affordable, delicious food (e.g. a katsu curry). The board service on a Shinkansen train is right up there: whether you want a Bento Box, a waffle or a cold beer – it will be served at your seat. In a Shinkansen train, you will arrive at your destination swiftly and comfortably.
Back to Hiroshima: Shortly after our arrival, we went to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial where the world’s first drop of an atomic bomb is remembered. Until August 6th 1945 Hiroshima was not hit by many bombs which happened supposedly on purpose in order to test the destructive force of an atomic bomb. Then, on August 6th, shortly after 8 a.m., people were on their way to work when Little Boy exploded approximately 600 meters over the city center. The heat and pressure wave destroyed 92% of the city’s 76,000 buildings and literally cooked thousands of people. By the end of 1945, 140,000 people had died – not to mention the many that suffered and died from radiation later. Only three days later, Nagasaki was hit by a much stronger bomb. Given the interrupted lines of communication, the Japanese emperor most likely did not have a chance to surrender in time – so from a today’s perspective, at least the Nagasaki bomb can be considered as one of the biggest war crimes in history. When we explored Hiroshima’s Peace Memorial and its stomach-turning but brilliant museum, we have to remember that all of this happened far less than 100 years ago. We cannot allow something like this to ever happen again, no matter the cost. Mankind as a whole lost itself in an abysm so dark and so unworthy for so-called intelligent life.
A stop in Hiroshima has to be combined with a day trip to the island of Miyajima. Next to many beautiful shrines and temples, the island offers stunning nature and plenty of amazing photography opportunities. Make sure to head up to the local mountain peaks to enjoy amazing views. Foodies will slurp delicious oysters and enjoy local sweets. Back in Hiroshima and thinking about tasty food, make sure to enjoy at least once Okonomiyaki in the local style. The mixture of pancake, plenty of cabbage, bacon, noodles, egg, special sauce, and upon, order many more things is prepared right in front of you and is very hard to find elsewhere in Japan. It goes well with local beer, plum wine and whisky soda – all served in ice-cooled glasses. Remembering this, I wonder why serving drinks in ice-cooled glasses is not a thing in Europe? Japan is definitely the world’s greatest service heaven.
Talking about great service, I have to say again that Japan is incredibly comfortable to travel. Exploring foreign countries is often an exhausting affair but Japan will make your travel life easy in all aspects. It may sound obscure to highlight it, but you can find clean (!) public toilets everywhere. Next to that, there are beverage dispensers around every corner, serving plenty of interesting drinks (try them all!) and, some of them, even have hot drinks like coffee on offer. Hungry for a snack in between? Check out one of the many 7-Eleven or Lawson stores.
So far, nights were pretty sleepless – not due to bar visits but due to the toughest jetlag of my travel life so far. But the constant flow of adrenalin from new impressions and experiences kept me going and, after two nights in Hiroshima, we were on our way towards Osaka. On the way, we made a quick stop in Kurashiki, a little Japanese town which is known for its beautiful fire-proof houses. Historically, houses in Japan are built out of wood. Due to many fires, towns like Kurashiki adapted, leaving behind a very unique heritage. Afterwards, we stopped for a second time on the way to Osaka: Himeji is home to one of the most stunning castles in all of Japan. As many houses, also Japanese castles were mainly built out of wood, leading to the fact that not many are left today. We are lucky that Himeji castle survived – it is a wonderful example of Japanese castle architecture and a must-see on any trip to Japan. In the evening, we arrived at Osaka’s Shinkansen station. Noteworthy here: Usually, the area around big train stations is great to live as you have access to fast connections inside and to the outside of the respective town. However, if a Shinkansen station is called “Shin-“ like Shin-Osaka, I recommend to look for an accommodation elsewhere. “Shin” means something like “new” and in consequence, it is usually quite far from the city center.
We stayed two nights in Osaka and those nights were not anymore sleepless due to jetlag, but due to Osaka’s nightlife. Shortly after our arrival in the hotel, we walked to Osaka’s Dotonbori street and were absolutely stunned by the uncountable illuminations and the masses of people exploring the district. Japanese food trends are mostly created in Osaka and any visit to Dotonbori street should be used to stuff one’s belly as much as possible. My favorite: An enormous Gyoza sandwich accompanied by a “Giga Beer”. When exploring Osaka’s nightlife, make sure to visit the red light district which is right next to Dotonbori street. In Japan, many things are different and that makes things fun and interesting. Have an open mind and explore the country in all of its aspects.
The day time in Osaka should be spent with exploring the city’s architecture, starting with the impressive Humeda Sky Building. Make sure to go up to the top to enjoy the city views. There is also a shopping center with an observation wheel on-top of it – because why not!? Needing a break? As already indicated, Japan is a food heaven. Next to the delicious food itself, theme restaurants based on comics and TV series are a thing, too, and you will find plenty of them in big cities like Osaka. Otherwise, visit the Kuromon market, where many fresh premium products like blowfish are an offer. A walk through Dotobori street by day is worth the time, too, because it is not as crowded as it is during the night. I also recommend the visit of a manga store – for some nostalgic moments when it comes to video games and stuff like Dragon Ball which was popular during my youth, and when it comes to the higher levels of the store where things get ambiguous from a western point of view. Still eager for more experiences but a bit tired? I did not do it, but why not rent one of the infamous Japanese love hotel rooms for an hour?
Either a day trip of its own or a great stop on the way from Osaka to Kyoto (or vice versa, Osaka and Kyoto are one big metropolis area anyway): Nara. After the busy city life, the temples of Nara will relax one’s mind. Take an extensive forest walk to escape the tourist masses and explore more beautiful shrines and temples. And be careful with the deer which is running around everywhere: there are plenty of warning signs which illustrate in a funny comic look how to (not) behave. Comic-esque look instructions are quite common in Japan as the people culturally struggle with direct criticism and the acknowledgement of mistakes. In any case, Nara is not only a must-see for its beautiful shrines and temples, it also adds some variety to any Japan trip, especially if the journey is focused on Japanese cities (like mine was).
From my point of view, itinerary-wise, Kyoto is a great stop between Osaka and Tokyo, as the character of the city is quite different in comparison. Both, Osaka and Tokyo, are extremely big cities and the flair can partially be similar. Kyoto, of course also a big city, is different – it is one of the few places where the old Japan is most alive. When you arrive, though, you will be stunned by the immense, futuristic main station which even features a sky walk. Leaving the main station, many interesting spots in the city can be reached better by bus than by train/metro. Kyoto’s list of UNESCO world heritage is endless and in retrospect I would have wished to be there for more than two nights. However, I did maximize those two nights. From a touristic point of view, I highly recommend the Kinkaku-ji, “Temple of the Golden Pavillion” and the Nijō Castle. Both are absolutely stunning in their own way. You will definitely encounter many tourists and pupils, but I guess this is a part of the experience in Japan. Why not take a picture with a group of smiling school kids? The positive side of this: Touristic spots also offer snack opportunities – I tried, among others, black sesame and matcha ice cream. In Kyoto’s Gion district you can explore classic Japanese house architecture – luckily, a few old houses survived up until today. You might even spot a real geisha. Interested in the old Kyoto by night? Head to the Pontocho Alley where you will find many restaurants and Japanese beer, sake and whisky bars. Right here might be the spot where I did enjoy Japan the most.
However, make sure that the nights are not too long, as getting up early is worth it as well: A short train ride to Arashiyama will lead you to a beautiful bamboo forest. The forest itself is not very big and I recommend beating the crowds by rising early, from my point of view it is definitely worth it. Afterwards, also a short train ride away, you can head to the Fushimi Inari-taisha shrine, a temple with thousands of gates, so called torii. The fact that there are really a few thousand gates will help you to beat the masses of tourists: Walk a while up the hill and enjoy with all the time of the world fantastic picture opportunities.
At this point, there was only one place left on the travel itinerary: Tokyo. On the Shinkansen ride from Kyoto to Tokyo you might see, if you are lucky, the famous and iconic Mount Fuji. Unfortunately, the volcano can be very shy and tends to hide itself frequently often in clouds. Before we look into Tokyo itself, I briefly want to focus on some travel essentials on any trip to Japan, which will also be very useful in Tokyo. First of all, on any Japan trip, you will walk a damn lot – bring comfortable walking shoes with you, they make a huge difference. Second, get a so-called Suica card which will enable you to use any metro in any city. Especially Tokyo has a few different metro operators and it is annoying and time-consuming to always look for the right ticket machine. Thirdly, order yourself a local SIM card before the trip to your first hotel. Having the possibility to get directions e.g. from Google Maps will be an insane help – some metro stations can be quite large and you will avoid walking kilometer over kilometer by taking the right exit. Fourthly, travel with light luggage and use lockers at train stations in order to avoid taking your stuff everywhere with you. Last but not least, make sure to behave like the locals do: queue properly before entering a train and try to not enter the women’s section of a train (except you are a female-only group of course, and yes, during the rush hour, there are women-only sections; same can be found in hotels!).
Based on the metropolis area, Tokyo is the biggest city in the world, and that makes choosing the location of the accommodation quite difficult. I stayed a few nights in Tokyo and during that time I moved two times. While Shibuya and Shinjuku properly offer the best opportunities to enjoy Tokyo by night, I would recommend to stay somewhere with a quick connection to Ginza station as Ginza is a great hub to get anywhere in Tokyo. In order to get a city overview, consider an organized bicycle tour to explore Tokyo by day. Unfortunately, I cannot remember my tour operator, but the tour gave great insights into the various city districts and also into how people in Tokyo actually live. Being part of a bicycle tour or not, the Meiji shrine is a must-see during any stay in Tokyo. The same goes for the nearby Harajuku street („teenager street“). The latter place is also perfect to try a Japanese Crêpe (no worries about the calories, as previously indicated, you will walk a lot). On your first afternoon with sunshine and good sight distance, head up the Roppongi Hills Mori Tower. It is completely worth the entrance fee and as it is located in central Tokyo. It offers the best views of all skyscrapers – and you might even be able to spot Mount Fuji. Regretfully I did not stay until sunset, but I highly recommend you to do so as the sun sets close to Mount Fuji. There are plenty of other skyscrapers you can go up, too: Tokyo’s town hall, located in Shinjuku, is free of charge, hence it is a must-do (the views are also a bit different compared to the Roppongi Hills Mori Tower). Then, there is also the famous Tokyo Skytree, currently the second tallest building in the world. The Skytree is expensive and is quite far from Tokyo’s center. Therefore, it is clearly no alternative to the tower in Roppongi Hills. However, it does give a good feeling about the almost endless extent of Greater Tokyo. In case you go there, make sure to explore the nearby Asakusa district with its shrine and the many very original shopping and food (some say that it is the best place to have Sushi) opportunities.
The area around Ginza and Tokyo Station is very interesting to all people who are into design and architecture. To enjoy the best views of Tokyo Station, go to the panorama terrace of the Japanese post office, called Kitte. When building its railway network, Japan consulted European experts, henceforth it is no coincidence that the station looks like the one in Amsterdam. On your architecture stroll, make sure to visit the Tokyo International Forum. Last but not least, make sure to visit Odaiba, an artificial island in the south-eastern part of Tokyo. Take an extensive walk to see things like the Gundam statue and a rebuild of the Statue of Liberty. The beachside is a perfect, relaxed place to enjoy the sunset while having a bit of hot sake. During day time, I highly recommend to visit the teamLab Borderless exhibition – a mind-blowing interactive experience. As it became quite popular, make sure to purchase tickets upfront, go on a week day and plan some time for queueing. Trust me, your efforts will be worth it. Last but not least, make sure to visit the Akihabara district with its immense electronics stores – geek hearts will definitely beat much faster there. Akihabara’s arcade halls are also pretty great to exchange plenty of money for plenty of fun. Looking for more entertainment in the evening? Consider to visit a Maid Café. There might very well be dodgy ones, but Maid Dreamin’ (more focused on party/dance) and @home cafe (more focused on feeling at home) are definitely far from being shady. Order a full menu to get the full experience. The latter is difficult to describe but just imagine that you had a rough day and you want to go to sleep in good mood. Go on a weekend night to increase chances that more Japanese people will be there. If all of the experiences so far were not crazy enough for you, attend a show in the Robot Restaurant in Shinjuku (purchase tickets upfront).
Tokyo can be an exhausting city, hence it can be good to escape the city on a day or two. Luckily, Tokyo offers many opportunities for day trips. Personally, I did two of them. Yokohama is not far and offers, next to some interesting architecture (especially the Osanbashi Pier), one of the world’s largest China towns. You might not even need a full day to explore everything there. The other day trip destination I went to was Kamakura which was totally worth it: Take the local historic tram to explore the stunning coastal line. I recommend going on top of the Enoshima Lighthouse. If you are lucky, you will spot Mount Fuji from there. Next to that, there are plenty of temples and shrines to explore (e.g. Kōtoku-in temple which is supposed to feature Japan’s most beautiful Buddha statue). Trains to those day trip destinations leave from Tokyo’s bigger train stations like Tokyo Station itself or Shibuya station.
On a final note, I recommend to look for flights from/to Tokyo-Haneda as Tokyo-Narita is quite far away from Tokyo. Otherwise, this blog post was following my travel itinerary which focused on Japanese cities. Japan’s list of interesting places is almost endless and there are plenty of nature highlights, too. Depending on your interests and your availability of time, I highly recommend looking into those as well. Whatever your Japan journey will look like, I am sure that you will have a fantastic time. Personally, I hope that I can return to explore more of this fascinating country one day.
@sebel_tours 